Anthony Yeates' 2mm Blog

Introducing Corrieshalloch...

2012-01-17T17:20:00.006-05:00

I'm starting work on a new 2FS layout project. After much deliberation, I've chosen a fictitious station on the projected but never constructed Highland Railway line from Garve to Ullapool. Corrieshalloch station is (in my imagination) squeezed between the main Garve to Ullapool road (now the A 835) and the Droma River, at the location now known as "Braemore Junction" where it is joined by the A 832. This is just south of the scenic Corrieshalloch Gorge, from which the station takes its name. The long access road to Braemore Lodge also leaves the main road near this location, and I am supposing that the station was located at this meeting of routes. Incidentally, the local Braemore estate was purchased in 1857 by none other than John Fowler. At the time he was civil engineer for the ground-breaking Metropolitan Railway in London; he went on to become chief engineer for the Forth Rail Bridge. The model will be set in about 1910 (once I have built sufficient locos and stock...)

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The Plan

Lying roughly mid-way between Garve and Ullapool, I have assumed that the Highland constructed a passing loop here. As you will see from the plan below, the model depicts only half of the station. This enables the full scenic area to fit in a length of 1060mm (3'6"), dictated by the dimensions of our car (not a big one!). In part, this is the reason for modelling a fictitious location. I just couldn't fit in a real Highland station, at least, not an interesting one. Hopefully the plan retains something of the spatious feel of the real locations.

I've chosen a through station rather than a terminus as I think it is better representative of the long cross-country lines that defined the character of the Highland. Fiddle yard boards will be added on either end, with the current idea being train turntables. For buildings, I envisage a typical HR goods shed and signal box, a row of railway-workers cottages, and a station building based on the design at Garve or Strathcarron. I want to exploit the vertical dimension too, so the land rises from the river at the front of the layout to hills at the back.

The following sketch is based around a Templot track plan. I hope to produce an improved version of the latter before tracklaying, including such things as interlaced timbering and catch points.

Highland Railway brake van - update

2011-12-11T05:45:00.002-05:00

After a rather long delay, the brake van is now complete except for couplings. I also want to tone down the paintwork a little next time I have the airbrush out.

I used Phoenix Precision Paints "Caledonian freight wagon oxide" for the sides, and a brighter red for the ends. The roof should be white but I went for a pale grey to try and tone it down a little. I wasn't sure whether the sides of the roof lookout should be oxide or white, although one (black and white) photo from LMS days looked more like oxide, so I went for that.

Transfers were individual letters from Fox sheet FG1003 in the "Franklin heavy" typeface. The handrails were added from 0.3mm steel wire fitting into the holes which I had previously opened out. Finally, glazing panels were cut from clear styrene sheet, and fixed in place with Microscale Kristal Klear. After failed efforts to cut pieces to fit the strangely-shaped windows in the roof lookout, I gave up and simply filled these with Kristal Klear itself.

Highland Railway brake van

2011-07-24T06:19:00.004-04:00

As my first step in modelling the Highland Railway pre-grouping, I thought I would start with an iconic Highland 6-wheel goods brake van, from the Lochgorm kit. The etch is reduced from 7mm and 4mm scales, but has proved a practical proposition. (For an example build in 7mm, see petesworkshop).

Construction is nearly complete: I still need to fit the chimney, handrails and couplings. Some filling is needed around the "birdcage" lookout. Most of the brake rigging is missing, but I don't think it would be visible. There should be tie rods between the bottoms of the W-irons, but I don't see how to fit these without inhibiting movement of the W-irons.

Axleboxes and springs are not included in the kit. I built them up in plasticard and fixed them around the footboards. They are much reduced in depth to allow for movement of the W-iron assemblies. The J-hangers are included in the kit but I soon gave up trying to put them together in this scale! Instead I made some crude replacements from plasticard and lengths of wire (still quite fiddly). They don't stand up to close scrutiny but at least there is something there!

The third photo shows the underside of the van. I build the chassis basically as described in the kit instructions. Each axle is fitted in its own W-iron assembly. The rightmost of these is rigidly soldered to the van floor. The leftmost is held by fold-down tabs that allow the axle to pivot in the centre. The centre assembly is allowed both to pivot and to move side-to-side (I had to file some material off the inside of the solebars and the backs of the top-hat bearings to allow this). It is held by a 0.010" steel spring wire which is soldered to fold-down tabs at either end. It runs up and down my Inverneuk layout ok, but time will tell if this system works satisfactorily out "in the wild". Wheels are 2mm Association coach wheels.

Judith Edge 06 shunter

2011-01-13T15:23:00.003-05:00

I have been working on and off for several months on a Barclay Class 06 shunter, based around an etch from Judith Edge (shot down from 4mm).

First stage was to build up the main bodyshell using the parts provided:

This prototype has a rather narrow bonnet (something like 7mm inside width) that won't fit most types of motor, so it presents something of a challenge to design a workable mechanism. Particularly as it is my first scratchbuilt chassis!

The next photo shows the body attached to the basic structure of the chassis. The frames are made from thin PCB, and spacers are solid brass (as per Nigel Cliffe's DY1 article). The Judith Edge etch does include frames but I wanted to use the PCB method with solid brass spacers to maximise weight.

The third photo shows the spacers more clearly. They are tapped for the 12BA screws that hold the frames on - the screw heads will be hidden behind steps eventually. They are drilled to a clearance fit for two further screws which attach to captive nuts on the top of the footplate (inside the cab and front bonnet), thus holding the body and chassis together. The third axle bearing in each frame will support the jackshaft.

I decided to try one of Nigel Lawton's "micro-motors" as these are narrow enough to fit in the bonnet, thus keeping the cab empty. I spent quite a considerable time pondering how to fit in a mechanism and also experimenting with how to mount the motor etc. I settled on the arrangement you see below, with a 3-stage reduction. The initial stage is via one of Nigel Lawton's rubber band drives, followed by a conventional Association 21:1 worm, and finally 14:20 spur gears. The latter are the new metric M0.3 gears, as these had the most suitable diameters. Due to the narrow width I was severely limited in the choice of gears to fit on the wormwheel cross-shaft. There was also a limitation due to the rather small 7mm driving wheels. The overall reduction works out at something like 108:1.

The intermediate gear shafts are held in a simple "gearbox" folded up from a scrap part of the kit etch. The "motor mount" is simply a piece of PCB hollowed out to an interference fit. It is bolted on to the gearbox so that the whole can be dismantled and the motor and/or rubber band drive can be replaced. Notice also the resistor between the motor and frame, recommended because these motors are rated only for 6V.

Amazingly, the mechanism now fits inside the body. However, it is rather temperamental, and I'm in the process of "tweaking" the setup to get the motor to turn happily in both directions. I got it to work initially but rather infuriatingly ruined the alignment somehow while modifying it to fit in the body! The problem is that the gearbox needs bending slightly to achieve minimum resistance on the worm and the correct meshing distance for the gears. In theory this will allow me to correct for my inaccuracy in marking, drilling and folding it up. In practice it is remarkably difficult to get right. Hopefully I will be able to get it turning OK, fit the wheels, and be able to move along the track! I'm not particularly confident in its running abilities, but it is after all my first chassis.

More on Building Construction

2010-07-22T16:19:00.002-04:00

I found this photo of one of my low relief warehouses/sheds under construction. As you can see, the main structure is built out of styrene sheet. It's based on a photo of a prototype at Dingwall.

You can also see my method for representing the corrugated-iron roof. I glued a sequence of lengths of wire to a piece of plastic with suitable spacing. To produce the sheeting, a piece of aluminium foil is cut from a suitable piece of scrap food packaging (shown left). This is thicker than usual kitchen foil, helping the rigidity of the finished sheet. It is pressed by hand over the wire former with the help of a fingernail in each groove. The resulting sheet of "corrugated iron" is then glued on to the building and painted.

Below is the finished building in place on the layout (the green building). Using metal foil rather than scribed plastic --which I had previously used for the goods shed roof--allowed me to model the exposed end of the corrugated sheet, along with the collapsing gutter!

Putting in the Stops

2010-05-11T15:31:00.002-04:00

At long last, I've added a buffer stop to the siding in front of the goods shed.

Rather than use one of the new Association etches, this one is scratchbuilt, based on a Highland Railway example (plate 162 of "Highland Miscellany by Peter Tatlow; drawings by the same author of what appears to be the same stop are in the Highland Railway Journal No.10, 1989). Bullhead rail was bent to shape and soldered to form each side of the structure (8 pieces in all). The 1'x1' timber baulk is laminated from two lengths of PCB point sleeper.

Picture Post

2010-04-10T15:58:00.004-04:00

With a new camera I'm now able to take pictures again, so here are some of the layout in its current state. There are a few more details needed but it's getting there.

First Steps in DCC

2010-03-08T15:50:00.005-05:00

I've finally taken the plunge and purchased an NCE Power Cab system (from Digitrains). This comes with everything you need to get started except a locomotive decoder.

As a first experiment I have converted a brand new Farish Class 24. This is an ideal choice as it is "DCC ready", meaning there is an internal circuit board with standard 6-pin decoder socket, and no need to modify the chassis. The socket comes fitted with a "blanking plug" for ordinary analogue operation.

I believe the idea is to buy a decoder with an integral 6-pin plug and simply plug it in. However, the decoder I bought at the same time as the system was a Digitrax DZ125 without a plug, just with 7 bare wires. These are colour-coded as follows, where the first column gives the numbers of the (labelled) sockets on the loco PCB, according to the NMRA standard:

1 (orange) motor right

2 (gray) motor left

3 (red) right rail

4 (black) left rail

5 (white) front light

6 (yellow) rear light

- (blue) light common

Note that there are 7 wires but only 6 sockets. The blue wire is not needed - the standard is apparently such that if it is not connected then the lights are supplied using the track as the common instead. As I had no plug I unsoldered the socket from the loco and soldered the individual wire ends instead (a bit fiddly and not what the maker intended!). The decoder sits happily where the blanking plug was initially located.

(Note: Sorry there are no photos as my camera is broken).

With some trepidation I assembled a circle of Setrack (the wheels have not been changed yet), put the loco on the rails, connected the Power Cab, and turned it on. It picked up the loco straightaway with the default factory address of "3," and I was able to drive it away with no further ado. One benefit of DCC showed immediately: I could turn the headlights on or off independently of whether the loco was moving (well, it impressed me anyway). When you change the direction on the controller, the lights change colour too.

I then followed the "Getting started" instructions in the Power Cab manual to easily program a long address for the Class 24. In the default state the operation was not smooth, increasing in 28 discrete steps from standstill to ridiculously fast. I expected it to be a lot of work to remedy this, but in fact it was simple. Following the instructions in the manual again (at least to begin with), I rapidly obtained fantastic running by programming the Class 24's decoder through the following procedure:

(1) Change the start voltage - configuration variable (CV) 2: I tried increasing this in single steps (these variables take values from 1 t0 255) until the loco just starts moving on speed step 1 (initially there was not enough voltage until speed step 2).

(2) Change the maximum voltage CV5: I lowered this to get a more reasonable top speed.

(3) Change the mid speed voltage CV6: I put this mid-way between my new values for CV2 and CV5 (not sure if it was necessary to set this independently).

With these settings the loco was able to run at a reasonable range of speeds, from an incredibly slow crawl to a reasonable pace. I then got adventurous and fiddled with CV3 (acceleration rate) and CV4 (deceleration). By default these are set to 0 so the loco moves instantly at the new speed, creating an undesirable jerky effect. By setting a non-zero acceleration I found that the loco could move very smoothly from one speed to the next, despite the fact that there are only 28 discrete speed steps on the controller. Nice. I opted for only a small deceleration rate so that the braking is also smooth, but is quick enough that I can control where the loco stops.

That concludes my DCC experiences so far. Unfortunately I only have one "chipped" loco as yet, so I can't experiment with controlling multiple locos at once. Although, on Inverneuk this will be something of a challenge. Time to order a decoder for the 08 I think...

Seen at Model Rail Scotland

2010-03-06T13:37:00.008-05:00

I spent an enjoyable day at the SECC last weekend including a stint on the 2mm stand with Inverneuk.

Andrew Peggie managed to film Mick Simpson's Class 25 at work shunting the yard...

The Warehouse

2009-11-28T17:46:00.007-05:00

An interesting building on Inverneuk is a low-relief version of this warehouse at Tain:

I took this photo while passing through on a (road) trip up North in June 2008. A couple of older views may be found at http://rniescottishailwayrchive.fotopic.net/p25206879.html. In particular, I have included the hoist on the front of the building that is no longer present, and have omitted the burglar alarm.

I began by preparing an approximate scale drawing (on the computer, based on the photos). This was printed out and mounted on cardboard as a mock-up, as featured in this shot of the embryonic scenery:

Construction of the basic superstructure was in styrene sheet. The stonework was laboriously embossed in cartridge paper which was then glued over the plastic shell. The ornamental tops to the walls, including the round finials, were scuplted from Milliput. The triangular sections were formed by running along a plastic scraper with a cut-out of the desired cross-section, although this required just the right "wetness" of the Milliput. The hoist was knocked up from scrap brass strip and bullhead rail.

Unfortunately this building (like the goods shed) is too tall to fit in the box file, so I made the upper section removable:

Here is the finished building in place, painted in acrylics. The surrounding scenery still needs development.

08 Update

2009-09-14T22:22:00.003-04:00

I've made some progress: constructing the outside frames and, most recently, fitting the coupling rods. The trickiest part was soldering the cranks squarely to the extended axles. When quartering I had to make more adjustments to deal with crankpins that weren't parallel to the axles than I did to get the angles of each wheel right.

I'm still not totally convinced that the chassis rolls down the tilted test track as smoothly with coupling rods as without, but it's close. I still need to attach the motor and see how it runs. Luckily the wheels are just held in the muffs by friction so are still adjustable. I haven't decided yet whether to glue them or not, but if I opt for glueing I want to check more carefully with a back-to-back gauge first (which I need to obtain...).

BR Blue CCT

2009-06-13T11:33:00.003-04:00

I've been working on the Chris Higgs BR CCT. Here is a quick preview of the model with base coat of paint, showing the home-produced transfers. Weathering, glazing, and handrail details are still to be done.

08 Shunter Progress

2009-05-25T11:27:00.005-04:00

In the last month or so I've begun construction of the 2mm Scale Association kit for the BR Class 08 shunter. I've found Graham Ross' blog about the construction of this kit very helpful.

Here is an early view of the frames, with bearings and PCB spacers attached. You can also make out the phosphor-bronze springs, following the method of Mick Simpson. The frames have half-etched holes intended for these. As recommended, the springs came from straightening out Farish N-gauge coupling springs. With this method you also have to shorten the muffs on the axles, which I did by a combination of stanley knife and filing.

This view was taken this morning, showing the chassis with all wheels and gears fitted for the first time. I opened out the muffs on the axles with a 1.5mm drill, so that the wheels are an easy push fit. Hence I will be able to correct the misaligned balance weight on the right-hand wheel! I think when I am happy with the drive I will have to glue the wheels in, by means of the perpendicular hole drilled in the centre of each muff. Unfortunately one of the large balance weights disappeared in between cleaning up and glueing in place, so I had to make a replacement by carefully filing a piece of spare nickel-silver fret.

Finally here is a video of the first "test run" with the motor attached. There is still work to be done in getting it running smoothly. Before this video was taken I found that one of the spur gears was locking, which I seem to have cured by opening out its bearing hole slightly (perhaps it was a result of the axle bearings being opened out to 1.6mm for the springing system?).

Trackwork

2009-05-03T21:49:00.006-04:00

As I haven't posted anything about my Inverneuk layout for some time, here is a photo sequence illustrating the method used for trackbuilding.

I used plain rail and PCB sleepers, following closely the excellent instructions in the Beginner's Guide. Building turnouts turned out (sorry) to be much easier than anticipated, having been one of my two main concerns about working in 2mm scale (the other is building working locos, of which more anon). Although I used the standard jig for building plain track, I didn't use a jig for the turnouts, simply building directly on to an Association plan. For simplicity I decided not to design my own tighter turnouts. No chair-plates were used (Inverneuk is a light yard anyway). Two further points. Firstly, I find that running a file along the outsides of the chairs after construction gives a more uniform appearance. Secondly, you can see the gaps filed in the sleepers: these were filled with milliput after construction.

In a departure from more normal practice, the next thing I did was not to fix down the track. Instead I constructed it in several sections, and, while they were still loose, soldered dropper wires to each length of rail. Corresponding holes were drilled in the baseboard. Away from the layout I then sprayed the track sections with primer and brush painted the sleepers and rails with acrylics. However, I'm not convinced acrylics were the best paint for this as they tend to peel off and have had to be re-touched since. The idea of painting the track before fixing follows an article by Bill Blackburn in the 2mm Magazine where he describes how he lays and ballasts the track at the same time.

Here we see a section of track in the process of being layed, alongside a completed section. Pins are prepared to hold it in position, then PVA glue is spread in quite a thick layer underneath, before fixing down the track. At the same time dropper wires are fed through their holes. Then, while the glue is still wet, ballast is sifted into place. I found it advantageous to tamp the ballast at this stage too. After allowing the glue to set the layout was shaken upside down to remove loose grains, and the ballast was touched up where required. At the same time stray grains that had stuck to the sides of the rails were removed.

The choice of ballast material resulted from some experiments. I settled for a mixture of Carr's ash ballast and sand from the local beach. Here is the real thing, on the Kyle line.

And here is the finished track!

P.S. Inverneuk now appears in print (2mm Magazine for April/May 2009).

Brake Van: Painting & Lettering

2009-04-05T21:34:00.006-04:00

I've now finished the brake van that I showed at an earlier stage. Again, painting is by artist's acrylics. Glazing was with Microscale "Kristal Klear" (a nice product that very much resembles PVA glue but dries very clear). The large windows - in the ends of the cabin - seem to be about the largest size for which this technique can be applied.

Lettering was the main area of experiment. My initial attempts at a passable interpretation with a paintbrush were unsuccessful, so I opted for waterslide transfers. With no commercial transfers available for this particular vehicle in late 1970's/early 1980's condition, I decided to print my own. I obtained sheets of Expert's Choice white inkjet decal paper (from http://www.bare-metal.com here in the US), and also two Microscale products: "Liquid Decal Film" and "Micro-Sol". The first is painted over the printed decals to seal and waterproof the ink. The instructions suggest spraying this but without an airbrush I opted simply to brush it on. I found that quite a thick coating was necessary to prevent the ink being washed away on subsequent wetting. The "Micro-Sol" liquid is applied to the transfer once in position on the model, thinning the transfer and enabling it to follow contours such as planking. It works very well and is essential with this decal paper, which is rather thick.

To draw the transfers I used the free, open-source vector graphics software Inkscape, which is straightforward to use and very useful for such tasks. I used simple text (with various fonts) and rectangles to copy the markings from a photo (in an old Model Rail magazine). Measurements were taken from the model itself, although I found I had to reduce the size slightly in Inkscape as the drawing was enlarged somewhere along the way to the printer. This is where test printing on cheap paper is very useful!

The greatest problem with computer-printing transfers is that normal printers cannot print white. White text must be done by printing the coloured surroundings on white transfer paper. Matching this surrounding colour to that of the model is tricky. In this case the problem only applied to the lettering on a bauxite/brown background, as the other two transfers are on different coloured patches anyway. I should refer here to the article on using the computer as a modelling tool by Geoff Jones (available to 2mm Association Members on the VAG), as I used the accompanying RGB colour charts to get a rough value for the colour. I printed copies of the transfers with several different background colours and picked the closest. This wasn't a perfect match, and some blending with paint was necessary afterwards.

Here is the computer artwork (three transfers for each side of the van):Here is a photo of some printed transfers (the US penny is about the size of a UK penny!):

16T Minerals

2009-03-17T21:13:00.004-04:00

Here's a picture of my latest wagon, fresh out of the paint shop, though that's not the case with the prototype. Painting is with artist's acrylics, over an undercoat of Tamiya fine grey primer. The wagon is an association chassis and plastic body kit. For some reason I decided to use the kit I had, which didn't have top doors, and add them myself from scraps of styrene. The repairs to the side panels were also from styrene sheet.

So now I have three mineral wagons:
I'm not quite sure whether this wagon should have a darker chassis, or the earlier two should be lighter, or both? I did work from a specific photo for this latest wagon, so it should be more accurate.

What's on my Workbench? ...Update

2009-02-05T22:20:00.003-05:00

Here is a photo of the completed brake van, ready for the paint shop. The roof is just sitting loose. My chosen prototype had an extra hand-hold above the ducket on the chimney side, and another one on the roof, so I added these from brass wire. From the prototype photo I couldn't tell if the rainstrips were straight or curved, so I stuck with the straight ones already in place.

What's on my Workbench?

2009-01-31T20:13:00.004-05:00

Here are a couple of photos of my current project: a BR Diagram 1/506 brake van, from the Association etched kit. Unfortunately the camera is good at showing up the imperfections such as remaining blobs of solder.

The next stage will be the handrails, of which there are many. The holes drilled out for these are visible in the photos. My intention is then to paint and glaze the van before attaching the roof. I'm still thinking about how to do the glazing.

Construction up to this point has been generally straightforward, though some fun and games were had trying to fit the triangular gussets on to the solebars. Soldering proved beyond my capability, so I resorted to glueing, and even this was troublesome. The main problem was that the slots in the solebar were still a bit too narrow, even after my attempts to widen them with a knife blade.

Baseboards and Turnout Operation

2008-11-21T21:21:00.003-05:00

Here are some early views of the underside of the layout to illustrate the (simple) baseboard construction and (slightly odd) method of turnout operation.

The boards are constructed from thin ply (I got a relatively small sheet from the 4D modelshop in London, no connection). It is soft and was easily cut with a Stanley knife into pieces for the top surfaces and strips for bracing underneath. There is also a cut-out section with lowered top surface to create an embankment at the cliff end of the layout (not seen here). Construction was simply by glueing, using chunks of softwood batten for support.

The turnout mechanism was problematic. Manual operation was the obvious choice, but there was insufficient room in the box to have polarity switches extending in front of the baseboard. So instead of operating a connecting rod by moving a switch, I opted for the reverse - namely moving the rod to operate both the switch and the turnout. I experimented with microswitches but found the spring in the switch contact to be too strong, so used miniature slide switches instead. (I have since been informed by Mark Fielder that the spring in the microswitches can be reduced by mounting them at right-angles, but I haven't tried it.) The switch is simply glued to the underside of the board.

I had some square section brass tubes so these were used to form a sliding rod. A wire connects this with the switch, and another with the tie-bar. Actually the tie-bar connection is a tube, and the wire connecting the tie-bar sits inside this. This was to allow the turnouts to be inserted at a later stage.

One point to note (no pun intended): the switch throw is longer than that of the tie-bar. I initially incorporated an Omega-loop in the tube connection to the tie-bar, but this made the operation too weak, so instead I have just extended the length of the tube to give enough play. It evidnently isn't quite flexible enough though, as the solder joint where it enters the square tube didn't hold. A subsequent botch using araldite seems to have done the trick for now.

The Highland Setting

2008-11-21T20:55:00.005-05:00

Although it's a small test layout, my aim is to give Inverneuk a definite sense of time and place. The time is 1970s BR and the place is the Highlands, somewhere north of Inverness. As I wasn't around in the 1970s, I've put up a photo I took in July this year at Kyle of Lochalsh (at least the place is right). With the exception of the 158 Sprinter (and the Skye Bridge which is not in this view), it probably hasn't changed much. There's a nice dismal feel, but actually the rest of the day was sunny up there, unlike St Andrews which was in a thick haar when I left at 6am, and still hadn't cleared by my return at 11pm!

The Highland setting of the layout should be recognisable, particularly once I build some appropriate locos (don't hold your breath). I will describe the characteristic buildings and the cliff face in future posts. The feeling I am after is a run-down old-fashioned railway in a remote corner of the country. The pictures of Dingwall in this album give the right feeling. In fact, I found lots of useful photos on similar sites to supplement the few I've managed to take.

Out of the box

2008-11-12T22:03:00.003-05:00

Here we see how the layout folds in half to fit in the box file. The two boards are permanently hinged together at the back, and the hinge at the front has a removable pin to fix them together. The pin was removed by filing off one end, and is quite a tight fit.

The strip of maroon-coloured material visible in the box exists to facilitate easy removal of the layout, as there is not much clearance in the box.

Introductions

2008-11-08T22:40:00.005-05:00

Welcome to my new 2mm blog. I plan to use it to document the construction of my "box file" shunting layout, tentatively named "Inverneuk". This represents my first serious effort in 2mm finescale. I hope that the descriptions will be interesting to other 2mm scale modellers, and to those yet to pluck up the courage to start in 2mm finescale.

As construction began about a year ago, I intend to post photos and descriptions of the work already carried out, in addition to updates on my current modelling. The layout appeared, albeit under construction, at the 2mm Expo in June 2008. For those unfortunate enough to miss that event, here is a snap I took of my layout.